photo: my good friend Kenyu
some things you just can't rush...
today morning was small and on-shore crappy swell so decided to spent the
day working hard... but, it wasn't working good!!!!
so it's always better to stop than do crappy work, it comes with experience....
so, better watch the waves again....
it has increase, some head high, glassy but still a bit of bumps...
but some really good lefts pealing EMPTY!!! that's the most important nowadays
I took the mini fins from my mini longboard that zoe have been riding,
put some old carbon G7 fins - I like BIG fins - grab my old, old, nineplus wetsuit
and hit the water....
It felt so good!!!! and that board is so good, straight away
my feet were where it suppose, like a friend said:
"É como andar de bicicleta....." it's like riding a bike
turning, trimming... the board is just magic, cause it's really good for me
as well for my 9 year old daughter...
now I'm back !!!






































